NOTICE:  These are tech pages explaining how I did these mods to my bike.  In almost every case -
I DO NOT SELL THE PARTS DESCRIBED.  I do tell you where I got them.  EXCEPTION - I do sell my custom exhaust mods. 

Tech Tips
Valk Products
My Valkyrie


Train/Fire Truck Horn



      You KNOW the reason.  You're tooling along, minding your own business, jammin to Sharp Dressed Man, and you see a cell-gabbing bimbo in an SUV at the 7-11 to the right ahead, waiting for the car in front of you to go by before she pulls out.  Is she gonna wait for you too?  You hit the modulator and cover the horn button and brakes.  Car goes by.  Her head swivels to the front and her wheels start turning.  DOH!  Braindead bimbo needs a lesson in attentiveness.  


      SCREEEECH!  She slams on the brakes & spins her head in terror - "OHMYGOD!  I almost pulled in front of a TRAIN!"


      This horn is not listed specifically as a train horn by Grover, who makes truck and train horns.  However, it makes HUGE volume in a very deep tone, much louder and deeper than the Hadley truck horn I had before.  (In  fact, I have  a Grover 3-chime train horn, which is simply too big to be reasonable on a Valk.  Though the air supply issues could be solved, I was really looking for THIS horn.)  My documents don't specifiy what model horn this is, but I think it's p/n 1024.  It's chrome plated brass, 24 1/2 " long, with a 6 " bell.  This same horn is used on fire trucks - so that's the sound you'll be getting - the fire truck horn sound.  VERY loud.


      $69 for the horn plus some metal scrap I had laying around the shop.  This is AFTER having already done the Premium Air System - I just replaced the Hadley Horn with the Grover.  If you're starting from scratch - here's more info:

      Grover and Hadley both make a kit that includes most of what you need - a 12v compressor (the Hadley puts out 135 lbs), tank, solenoid, pressure switch, air fittings and tubing.  For either kit you will need to make Valk-specific mounts.  I used the Hadley kit, so I know it fits.  Though the tank in the Bully Horn kit is 6"round by 7" long, and the tank listed in their seperate kit is 6" round by 14" long (I haven't installed this one). Hadley has retailers listed on their site - I got mine through Camper's World 1-800-626-5944.  I bought the Bully horn kit - which was around $250, including their horn. 

      $20 for the Kuryakyn 1-1/8" bar clamp.


      Coverting from existing Hadley horn to Grover - an afternoon.

      Installing from scratch the whole kit -  a weekend.  I also connected mine to Progessive air shocks which takes more parts & time.  See A Premium Air System .


    • Grover 24" horn p/n 1024 from
    • Hadley Bully kit p/n H00961 (this includes the Hadley Bully horns, but I don't see the kit listed without them)
    • 1-1/8" Kuryakyn bar clamp
    • 1" X 4" X 1/8" stainless flat stock
    • 3/4" X 5" square steel tubing
    • 2" X 4" X 1/8" flat steel stock.
    • 5- 1/4" X 3/4" SS bolts & nuts
    • flat black spray paint


    • MIG welder, welding clamps & alignment magnets
    • chop saw
    • electric hand drill and bits
    • combination and socket wrenches
    • T-square
    • die grinder and carbide cutter (if you have Baker wings)


      Install the air system.

      Make a bracket to hold the back of the horn using the 3/4" tubing and 1/8" flat steel stock.  My bracket uses 4.75" tubing with the flat stock welded on both ends, and bolts to the engine hanger under the ignition switch.  (I am about to move the horn forward 3 inches, by modifying the bracket & will update these pics when complete.)  In positioning the horn, pay attention to clearance for your leg, as well as the clearance of the bell when the fork is turned.  (I need a little more leg clearance for comfort.)  After a test fit, paint the completed bracket flat black with spray paint. 



      The forward end of the bell is supported by the bracket they supply, connected to the piece of flat SS stock and then to the Kuryakyn clamp to the crash bar.  This piece of flat SS stock will get longer when I move it forward a bit. 



      If you have Baker wings, you will need to notch them for clearance - I found a carbide cutter in a die grinder works great, unlikely to split the plexiglass - makes the cut and the finish with one tool.  Be sure to use masking tape both sides.



      I colored the 1/4" air tubing with permanent marker.


      Notice I also finished the exposed nuts with chrome bullet nut covers, from a truck supply.  I'll write a seperate article on this.


      I save it for emergencies.  Or as a dinner bell (at Rebels's workshop & cookout).  Or to scare the bejesus out of Aurora Honda.  Or any damn time I feel like it as long as the LEO's ain't looking.  The part of the Colorado law that applies says

      which clearly makes the volume level subjective and subject to interpretation (the terms "loud" and "harsh" are not defined in the law), so if you don't abuse it  (at least in Colorado), you shouldn't attract the attention of the LEO's.  And if you do get a ticket the point is arguable:  you have as much right to protect your life as a truck driver does. (These horns are installed on trucks too.) 

      BUT.  If you go nuts and get a ticket, you're on your own.  I ain't paying it.

All technical mods described here are merely reports of what I've done.  You may attempt to replicate them at your own discretion and risk if you choose.  Horseapple Ranch, LLC and Mark Tobias will in no way be responsible for the results of your attempting to perform these mods on any motorcycle, regardless of the outcome.

All content on copyright 1999-2006 Mark Tobias except "Riders Say", "Dyno Day", Vallejo and Shop Manual and Alternator Review pages, and SWF and MP-3 files and their graphic icons, and any content specifically attributed to another author.  
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