It's a bit easier if you have a lift - but not required, and if you have one you already know how much it helps when wrenching or cleaning your ride.
Tools you need are
- 10mm combination with 12 pnt. thinwall box end wrench,
- 8, 10, 12, 14mm sockets, 6" extension, rachet - I prefer 1/4" drive
- torque wrench for ranges below & adapter if needed . Craftsman has a pretty good torque wrench, number 944596 at $89.98, range is 5-80 ftlb. That will cover all of the torque values in the shop manual with one
wrench if you don't open the engine. Check their catalog at http://www.sears.com
- pick for removing header gaskets (only if doing core exchange)
- Utility bar and mallet if you got a "Monday" Valk (see below)
Put a carpet or other padding under the pipes, especially the right side, so the headers don't dent if you drop them.
Left side - Unscrew the rear mount nuts, driver's footpeg mount, shifter pinch bolt, lower
engine guard bolt, and the header nuts. Loosen the rear footpeg bracket bolts, and the forward saddlebag guard bolt if so equipped. Hold the header end and bump it with your other hand or a mallet to unseat it. If
the bike is low to the ground you can lay alongside it and support the muffler end with your leg, pull the rear mount studs out of the bracket, guide the header brace through the opening in the engine guard and lower it to the
Right side - no need to remove the rider's footpeg. Do the same at the back as the left side, unscrew the header nuts while being careful not to drop it - right side drops easily.
Don't remove the header
gaskets unless you are changing mating surfaces, that is, putting on different pipes than you took off (i.e., core exchange).
Wrap the chrome pipes in a towel or similar for the trip to the shipping store.
I recommend going to a Shipping Connection, PostNet, Pack and Ship or similar store, that uses Fedex Ground for shipping, for professional packing with proper
materials. ( Note - Mailboxes Etc. has merged with UPS and become The UPS Store. e no longer use UPS due to lost shipments, damage, and breach of contract on extra value insurance. DHL has discontinued domestic
service, effective 01/30/09.
I can send you the box and packing for $35. If you have someone else pack them, have them wrap at least the chrome in foam or bubble blanket, and pack the pipes tightly in peanuts.
The best way to pack them, is to wrap each exhaust side in bubble pack or foam blanket, then put them together with the inside (the side towards the bike) of the pipes facing each other, and the ends reversed so the outlet of one
is next to the header of the other. Then put a few turns of tape around both ends so they can't rattle. Put them in a box, and fill the empty spaces with styrofoam fill or the like. I raise the pipes and shake
them so the fill gets underneath too - I put so much fill in, that the box has to be forced shut with bar clamps. The smallest box the pipes without tips and cut piggies will fit in is 12 X 8 X 54 inches and it will weigh
around 42 - 44 lbs. If you still have piggies intact (the 3 tailpipes) you will need a 60" long box. The cost should be around $55-90 including the packing store's markup and Fedex Ground freight, depending on where you are.
Or you can pack it yourself and take it to a Fedex depot or authorized shipper. You can find a drop off location at http://www.fedex.com/Dropoff/start?locale=en_US
Actual shipping charge for this size box from a Fedex depot, shipping ground, should be around $35 plus or minus about $10 depending on where you are. You'll save almost $50 if you have the packing materials already,
compared to using a packing store. I use Fedex exclusively for shipping pipes, as I've had a lot of damage and loss from UPS - who also reneged on the insurance. FYI UPS was sued in '04, international class action, for
breach of contract on extra value insurance - which was exactly my experience with them. Interestingly, what the lawyers got for themselves was a cash payout around $20M - what they got for UPS customers was a discount on
additional shipping. I dropped out of the suit, and will no longer use them. A word to the wise...
PLEASE DO NOT SHIP LARGE PACKAGES TO ME BY U.S. POST OFFICE. They are MUCH more expensive, they do not
deliver packages to the ranch, so I have to go get them, and they have also lost several packages, while dishonoring their responsibility for them. USPost shipments will slow down package turnaround. Thanks for observing this
It's easiest to assemble the covers on the pipes before putting them on the bike, except for the stock tips on an Interstate - put
them on last.
Spread the forward strap a little on the straight cover, to get it past the muffler clamp. The straight covers are installed with the heads of the strap bolts down.
To install the curved
cover, you'll think the bolt hole doesn't line up. That's because there's a retainer holding the bolt on, and it won't line up until you remove the bolt and position the cover. Just unscrew the retainer that looks like
a washer off the back of the bolt and discard it - it has no useful purpose other than to get you to cussing when you're putting your covers on. Don't forget the little rubber grommets that fit on the header end of the can,
and help hold the curved covers on. They go on with the little bumps outward. BTW, there's a dummy screw on the right curved cover that holds nothing. Looks like a perfect example of engineering and
production departments not talking to each other.
Cover bolts torque values are:
curved cover bolt 7 ftlbs
straight cover bolts 16
tip bolts 7
To put the pipes back on, you should loosen the passenger footpeg mount bracket, and the forward
bolt holding the saddlebag guard rails, if so equipped. You may have to completely remove one of those bolts, and assemble it in a certain order - may take a little experimentation. This happens maybe a third of the
time, which leads me to believe there may be some truth to the "Friday" or "Monday" assembly theory of vehicular lemons. Really, I think this comes from Honda saving money on manufacturing tolerances when they can get
production assembly to whack it with a mallet or use a pry bar. I have found substantial variance in the muffler mount point relationships from pipe to pipe, such that it prevents the use of precision jigs in reassembly and
so I have had to design another process to ensure the pipes are accurately aligned on welding. You may also find the crash bar bolts under the jugs don't line up when you're assembling it - same cause, loose tolerances, and
here it's in a place that had NO changes since you took it apart. Find a place to apply leverage with a wrecking bar (also called a "utility bar", 15 inch is a good size) while you insert the bolt. You may want to
protect from marks with a shop rag, and be careful you don't pry on anything delicate. Frustrating if you aren't expecting it, but now that you are, you'll handle it fine. Give me a call at the number below if you want
to tap my experience; I've seen this quite a few times.
Torque values are:
headers 7 ftlbs
shifter pinch bolt 9
engine guard bolts 20
left rider footpeg 29
rear muffler mounts 25
rear footpeg brackets 29
The shifter has a little dimple that is an index at the pinch slot.
You won't be able to get a torque wrench on the back header nuts, right side, unless you do the following: use the 10mm combination wrench to extend the
torque wrench. If it's 3/8" drive, that amounts to 9.525mm, so the open end will fit nicely on the square drive. You need to allow for the additional leverage and set the torque wrench lower. My Husky model 39103,
using a Craftsman Professional USA-VA-47952 10mm combo wrench (6 5/8" overall length) measures at 5.5 lb setting very close to the same torque provided by 7 lbs without the offset wrench leverage.
( I used my lathe
and an electronic scale to arrive at the setting by measurement instead of calculation, since I don't know where the lever arm ends inside this click torque wrench. ) Or you can keep the extender at a 90º
angle to the torque wrench and use the 7 lb setting. (Thanks, F6Hawk) I was going to make a custom extender for the torque wrench until I discovered this works nicely without the trouble. Click thumbnail to see larger picture:
When you insert the Bones, be sure you hear a click and give them a tug to be sure they are latched. They can be inserted by feel, just align the locator pin downwards, parallel with the vertical
plane of the bike (horizontal, outwards on Interstates) - the slot for the pin is V-shaped so you don't have to be exact. Of course if they are hot, wear leather gloves and don't hold them long.
(Lawyer made me say that) Remember you can tune the timbre & volume of the trombones - just slide them in & out until you get the sound you like, then measure how far out they are & cut that
much off the other end with a hacksaw.
The pipes will smell for a tank or so while the cutting oil and WD-40 burns off.
NOW GO HARLEY HUNTING!!!!!!!!!!!!